Wednesday, 28 April 2010

nose to tail

The Digestive Tract recently posted on a visit to our shores by British exponent of Nose to Tail dining, Fergus Henderson. Fergus served up a 13 course banquet on the philosophy of using the entire pig literally frm nose to tail including  "pork spleen, presented as a slow poached rotolo reminiscent of a good quality liverwurst in flavour and the texture of slow cooked calamari. The crispy tail was unctuous and moist, the brawn and pigs ear terrine deliciously al dente and …well…delicious." To think that among the critical feedback of the now defunct Cafe Lumiere menu was that dishes such as braised Atherton pig's trotter were too adventurous for Cairns?

I was thinking on this while reading my latest book Heat by Bill Burford, "an amateurs adventures as kitchen slave, line cook, pasta-maker, and apprentice to a Dante-quoting butcher in Tuscany". The Dante-quoting butcher is Dario Cecchini whose philosophy of butchery is more akin to a romantic art than a trade! "A butcher works in meat during the day and plays in flesh at night. A true butcher is a disciple of carnality" It almost sounds good enough to entice Kitcheslut to take up butchery?
Back in New York to apply his Tuscan skills, Burford then acquired a freshly slaughtered pig and over a week butchered in his city apartment and devoured the entire animal, with some help from friends. He estimated the pig generated 450 servings of food at less than 50c a plate! Of course this wouldn't include his labour or educational costs of his time in Italy. 
Inspired by this and the somewhat les inspirational Woolies meat department, Kitchenslut has fired up the pressure cooker to contemplate the sensuality of a corned beef tongue ..........

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